Don't Panic

Very accurate, providing the focal length value being used is also accurate.

ALL lenses have marked focal lengths that differ from their actual, measured focal lengths. This variation may range from slight to extreme. Some lenses in common use have marked focal lengths double their measured focal lengths, mainly for marketing reasons.

If Artemis appears inaccurate this is most likely the cause. To remedy this you can use the Add Lens function and include more accurate data. Many discerning camera operators do this to make Artemis 100% accurate.

Most of the time it will be. But sometimes the published field of view of the iPhone camera is not exactly accurate. To fix this, use the camera calibration wizard you'll find in Settings.

The place to hold your iPhone is at the lens nodal point, which is one focal length's distance in front of the image plane, where the angle of view of the lens is measured. Since you are comparing two cameras with very different flange focal depths, a comparison at the nodal point will give you an accurate result. For zoom lenses, about a third of the way down the lens is best.

Great. This is the best option when using Artemis. All your assets should be backed up in a folder called Artemis Local Data. You can find this using the Files app on your device. First, check to see if they are there. If they are not, make sure you have adequate iCloud space available. If you don't, you might need to purchase some more storage space or make space available.

Next, open Artemis, then open the Gallery (bottom right), then tap the Settings cog. If Save Locally Stored Assets to iCloud Drive is turned off, switch it on. This should restore your assets. If not, email us.

In the Gallery, it is possible to view videos, images or both together. You can select this on the bottom left of the screen.

There are four options here. The quickest is to update the Camera Database and Lenses. The database is updated frequently and the Camera Format you need might be in the update.

If not, create a Custom Camera. Open the camera picker and scroll to the bottom of the page, then tap Custom Cams. On the top right tap Add Custom Camera and add all the details for that format. BEWARE! Camera manufacturers are often a little "generous" with their specs. Try and get some independently verified data rather than relying purely on the manufacturers data. Save this and you are set to go.

If you are prepping a job and have a little time, send us an email with as much information about the Camera and Camera Format you can. We'll add it as soon as we can get the data required.

Lastly, try a generic camera format as a stop gap until you have the data to make a custom camera or share it with us.

Open the Lens Picker on the top right and tap Add Lens at the bottom of the Focal Length list. Add new focal lengths here. The Marked Focal Length and the Measured Focal Length should be the same, unless you have measured the lens and have more accurate data. The anamorphic squeeze ratio for spherical lenses is "1".

Apple has restricted the use of UVC on the iPhone. Until that changes, the workaround is to use an Accsoon 4K SeeMo, which allows the HDMI output of the camera to be converted to data that the iPhone can display. This may change in subsequent versions of the iPhone or changes in iOS.

External Camera Mode requires a high-bandwidth USB-C cable. Not all USB-C cables support the bandwidth required — if it isn't working, try a different cable.

Try restarting your camera and checking that the settings for USB-C output are set to UVC, Streaming, Webcam etc, but not Storage or Power.

Check that the USB-C input on your iPad is clean.

Failing this, email us.